Recent Happenings

I spent a day wandering around Rotterdam with some new friends. Had a delicious lunch at an organic, seasonal restaurant that gives cooking lessons and then went to a museum with a very long name. It had a fantastic collection of traditional and modern art. The city itself is unlike the other cities I've visited here because it was almost completely destroyed by the Nazi Luftwaffe one night in 1940. The result is a much more modern feeling city, and in many ways similar to the feel of American cities. Rotterdam used to be the biggest port in the world until it was superseded by Shanghai in 1994.







This picture is from a nautical themed costume party in Den Haag. I was a captain and made my crew do the most fun thing I could think of- human pyramid.

Cultural Differences Thursday: A Trip to the Gym

The longer I'm here, the more I lose my 'eye' for what is different in the Netherlands but every so often I have a day where I'm reminded that we aren't in Kansas anymore. For instance, a trip to the gym. The sports center kind of like a big YMCA with unfancy locker rooms and a big gymnasium. On a recent visit, the following occurred:
- picked up a pamphlet for a 'pole fitness' class,
(http://www.services-facilities.leiden.edu/sport/sports/pole-fitness.html)
- walked by the university tanning booth,
- ran on the treadmill while no less than 4 different girls hopped on the treadmil next to me for about eight strenuous minutes, most of them wearing black reebok sneaks that do not look much like running shoes. This means that I am by far the sweatiest person in the gym,
- did not wait in line for the stationary bicycles, of which there are about 40, (how can the dutch need MORE bike riding?)
- thought about grabbing a beer at the gym's bar,
- nearly ran into a wily rooster, wandering about right outside the doors,
- got a nose full of the pot as I rode by a coffee shop on the way home.

Also, the recently installed an art exhibit in the halls of the law school. Theme: female nudes.

My bike

Rio or bust!

Last week I went on the annual 'Rio Trip' sponsored by the European Law LLM program at the University to Strasbourg, Luxembourg, and Brussels. It was a total school field trip complete with buses, hostels, and constant counting of people, but it was a really great experience. The trip was led by a Leiden professor who had excellent contacts at all of the seats of European government and got us in to all of the institutions and to meet with judges, diplomats, and high ranking officials.

Our first day in Strasbourg began with a visit to a concentration camp outside the city. It was my first visit to a concentration camp and I was quite overwhelmed. It's one thing to read about it, to see the pictures, but a very different thing to actually be there, to touch things, to look at the same woods, sky, ect. It was a cold, grey, and rainy morning and I ended up in the bunkers at the far end of the camp by myself, at the bottom of a big hill with no one even within shouting distance. I saw the crematoria, the rooms for 'medical experiments', the autopsy chamber, the solitary confinement cages, and the torture chambers with floors tilted so the blood could drain more quickly. There was something about being there alone that took away what little 'museum effect' cushioned the experience and I was very shaken.

We got on the bus and headed out of the mountains and back into the city. As we did, the rain stopped, the clouds lifted and it was suddenly a very symbolically nice day. We went straight to the European Court of Human Rights, a direct outgrowth of the World War II and the Holocaust. We saw the inside of the courtroom, spoke with a judge and two lawyers who work as clerks for the court (though the system is different). We walked over to the Council of Europe and heard a bit about the political manuvering that goes on behind the scenes and then ended the day with a reception at the residence of the Permanent Dutch Representative to the Council of Europe.

On Tuesday I got up and visited a French court of first instance for a little bit, then we all went to the European Ombudsman office (boring name, interesting job), then to a european television station, then on to Luxembourg!

On Wednesday we went straight to the European Court of Justice where we watched of first instance trial about ompetition law and state aid in Slovakia. Luxembourg is beautiful but strangely situated city- it's spread on either side of a steep ravine. We walked up to old city for dinner and saw that the original protected fortress was actually situated very well for defense.

On Thursday we started in Brussels and visted the European Parliament, Commission, and Council of Ministers over the next two days. We also had some really interesting presentations on the Lisbon Treaty, the application of Turkey for EU membership, and EC policies toward immigration and asylum.

While the trip was great, getting back to our lovely little apartment with bedrooms with doors, large, private bathrooms and a squishy couch was a definite highlight.

Strasbourg, or the German part of Disneyland?

Natzweiler-Struthof Concentration Camp

Inside of the European Court of Human Rights, designed by the same architect who did the Pompidou Center in Paris. The concept was that justice should be transparent, just like the structure of the building.

At the European Court of Human Rights

ECHR Member State Flags

European Court of Justice, Luxembourg

Beautiful Brussels

The beach!

I took a ride to the nearby beach a couple weeks ago and it was stunning. The dunes rival those in Provincetown (and you know how much I love those). We stopped for some tea and apple cake too. Not a bad day.

This picture does not do justice to the beautiful dunes, but taking pictures while riding is advanced bikeriding and I am only in intermediate.

The country that is low.

1574 Siege of Leiden as interpreted through electronic music

The weekend of October celebrates the city of Leiden's defeat over Spanish invaders. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siege_of_Leiden) The city was preparing all week with an enormous carnival (Big E size), huge tents for outdoor performances and beer gardens, and lots of balloons! On Friday night the streets were absolutely packed with people at the carnival, overflowing from the bars, dancing to djs in the street. On Saturday morning, this usually pristine city seemed a little hungover with bottles, cans, bursted balloons and garbage in ther streets. The highlight of the weekend was the parade which, as previously mentioned, was themed 'American Dreams.' It was very funny/weird to see what non-Americans see as the essence of America. There were Pilgrims (who originated in Leiden), immigrants and a Statute of Liberty, Presidents Clinton and Obama (and Bush who had to sit inside the car and not wave), a Mississippi steamboat, Indians and cowboys, AMISH, Hollywood, movies, and Titanic (?), paperboys on bikes, a gospel choir, school bus and Ronald McDonald, High School Musical, a basketball team and scantily clad cheerleaders, and a Vegas scene. Some of the people around us realized we were american and turned to see our reaction at each new float. I suppose if we insist on dressing the dutch in wooden shoes it's only fair that we are associated with the Amish, steamboats, and Ronald McDonald.

Boats with their party lights on

One of the most remarkable parts of the weekend was the party our next door neighbors threw. One of them is a DJ and plays hardcore techno from 2:30-5:30 nearly every day (professional training?). However, this day was not like all others. They had a little shindig that started at 1 pm and lasted until 1 am. That, my friends, is a whole lot of techno.

What a difference an awesome president makes...

If you ever had any doubts about what the election of Barak Obama has done for the reputation of Americans abroad, consider this- Every year Leiden celebrates October 3rd as the the day they overcame Spanish siege in 1574. Every year there is a big parade with a theme and this year's theme is "American Dreams." And in fact, they asked for Americans to walk in the parade waving American flags. (and not as targets for rotten tomatoes) Having been in London in 2004, I find this nearly incredulous. I won't be in the parade, but will be marveling at what one spectacular election can do.

Balsamic glazed steak-red pepper-red onion- tomato dinner salad fixins

Antwerp!

Took an impromptu weekend trip to Antwerp last weekend. It's a beautiful city just a couple hours away in Belgium. Surprisingly, I was very excited about the food. We got in pretty late on Friday, wandered around and found a cute little square with outdoor cafes, perfect for italian food and Belgian beers. On Saturday I dragged everyone around looking for Belgian waffles. Those Antwerpians are rather particular about when they serve these delicious treats. A couple places said waffle time was only from 2.30pm until 5.30. This is to be distinguished from pancake time, which extends until 6 pm. Did some walking around and saw the magnificent cathedral, an ancient castle, and some windy streets. And, then! For the main event, we sat in beautiful square and ordered huge pots of mussles with frites. Went to a medieval bar for a drink- very realistic. One Sunday we went to a fashion museum and then the National Art Museums and saw some Rubens.

Train Station

Rubens

Happiness I

Belgian Chocolates

Happiness II

Main Square

Leiden

Evensong on our canal

Botanical Gardens

The Pilgrims' Church, before they left for Amerika

Rembrandt's Birthplace, bulldozed for condos in the 80's, but there's a plaque!

Some Dam Pictures

Post museum stretching

Domesticity

It's been a busy couple weeks. My classes here are considerably front loaded. Come November I'll only have two classes (and a 50 page research paper but who's counting). But for now there is lots and lots of work to be done, some of it catch up, some of it trying to make sure I pass! Failing classes is a regular occurrence here, even for the best students. There are make up exams and plenty of people re-take classes two and three times but clearly there's no time for that. Brie and I have spent lots of time in the apartment studying, cooking, and playing each other songs on youtube. Last weekend we went to a cozy little bar on Friday night and then Amsterdam on Saturday. It was a really fun day. Walked and walked and walked. Went to the Rijkmuseum and saw some historicaly paintings. Then had dinner at a delicious Italian hole in the wall. Then, yes, off to the Red Light District. Boobs everywhere. We were early so it was still family hour- lots of respectable looking people and tour groups. I read in the tour book that people are shocked at the juxtaposition of the red light windows and the magnificent church smack in the middle of the area, but geez louise, at one point they were not more than 20 feet apart. I also thought it was interesting that a lot of the 'girls' were talking on their cell phones while prancing in the windows. How does that conversation go?? I think we are headed to Brussels this weekend!

We are contemplating getting cats...

Bikes and Markets

Brie and I got bikes! I was pretty nervous at first because I don't count bike riding among my many skills. And because everyone is on a bike, it's very much like driving a car- dedicated lanes, traffic lights and rules. But it is super fun and very convenient.

My bike vendor, who coincidentally hate bikes and doesn't own one.

We spent some time at the market last week- they have a big one every Wednesday and Saturday. Stacked up on some wildly stinky cheese and nutty breads. On Saturday we had some tea and snacks while people watching. Mine was a whole apple, rolled in cinnamon and baked into a pastry. Not bad?

For my parents

First day of 19th grade



To Dad: Exhibit A- The Wolky Shop, where they sell things to walk with. The Dutch, unlike the English, are very good at naming things.

Out and About

We've almost been here a week and I have to say it's been a rather tough one. I got here after classes started because I needed some time to get myself together in Connecticut, but it's made moving in, finding classes/books/computers/printers/libraries/grocery stores/cell phone stores/lightbulb stores, and trying to apply for jobs a little trying. Made a lot of progress this week and it seems like things are starting to fall into place. In other news- it is early to mid October weather here! Some days are beautiful and sunny but we've only had one really warm one.

Our canal

Across the street from school

Darling, I don't know how to tell you this but there's a Chinese family in our bathroom

Brie called it the first day- we live in Ikea! As someone who heartily enjoys Ikea, this is ok by me! We seriously lucked out with a great place, all due to Brie and no thanks to the University. It's cute as a button, fully functional with a pretty good kitchen, dishwasher, a huge, squishy couch and TV with a couple english channels. It's a hop, skip, and jump from a lovely canal and about a 12 minute walk to school (soon to a 5 minute bike ride!).

From 500 Days of Summer- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLUp6pZsC_U