We arrived in Llasa on the evening of July 3rd after a 24 hour train ride from Xining. The ride was a combination of hours of brown, dusty high plateau scenery and breathtaking snowcapped mountain peaks. We saw lots of yaks, wild Tibetan donkeys and sheep and hundreds of small collections of Tibetan tents, colorfully decorated and inhabited by sheep and yak herders. The time flew by for the most part, the exception being that I had about 6-7 hours of altitude sickness (headache, stomach ache, vomiting), which is not easy to manage when the quarters for 4-6 people are about the size of our bathroom at home. But that passed and I spent the time looking out the window at some pretty amazing sights, reading and talking. Our group consists of 26 very different people, half of whom are couples. I knew many of them before the trip. One week in, we are all getting along pretty well.
We arrived at 10 pm and were greeted by a flock of Chinese security. It seems we are one of the first groups to be let into the country after the March uprisings and the government is very worried about more protests. It is fascinating to hear the story of what happened from our guide who is Chinese and has the official government story of the uprisings.
We went immediately to the hostel which is run by the Chinese government. There we were greeted by at least half a dozen officials who also looked very worried but eager to impress us with their hospitality. Our rooms are pleasant and recently refurbished and the hotel staff is pleasant enough, but everyone around here seems tense and nervous.
Fourth of July! Yeah America!
Today we got a slow start...they are worried that the Americans will keel over and die from the altitude so they are continually telling us to walk slowly and rest often. In the morning we visited the Jokhang Temple, the most magnificent temple with hundreds of worshipers circling the building (clockwise). The sights, smell and sounds of the place were something to behold. There Tibetans circle the temple singing mantras, many lying prostrate on the ground chanting and praying to Buddha. They place yak butter in to keep the candles lit and the intense smell of incense is everywhere. The temple is filled with brilliant colors decorating each little chapel inside. This temple was built in 639 AD by the king Songsten Gampo. Steve, I thought of you hundreds of times today.
Have to leave to go see the Potala Palace now, but will send more tonight.
Love

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